I. Introduction
Bittergourd (Momordica
charantia Linn.), ampalaya in Tagalog or parya in Iloko, is one of the
most important commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in the country
because of its nutritive and medicinal value. The fruits contain
calcium, phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates, and vitamins A, B, and C.
Advanced
commercial cultivation of ampalaya used to be concentrated in Regions
III (Central Luzon) and IV (Southern Tagalog). Although Ilocos Norte had
the 5th biggest harvested area in 2001 (BAS), production was largely
traditional yielding only about 6 tons per ha. Recent claims that
ampalaya helps cure diabetes have boosted market demand and encouraged
many Ilocano farmers to modernize its cultivation.
Two
types of ampalaya are being grown locally. One is the long, dark green,
and less warty type; the other is the short and warty, and more bitter
pinakbet type. The crop can be planted anytime of the year. However, it
is best to plant in July and August (wet season) for better prices, and
in October (dry season) to take advantage of available soil moisture.
II. Varieties
It
pays to select varieties which are high-yielding, early-maturing,
tolerant to pests and diseases, adapted to local climatic conditions,
and easy-to-sell. The following varieties were tested in Currimao,
Ilocos Norte from wet season 2005 to dry season 2007:
Variety Maturity Fruit
Characteristics Other
Characteristics
|
|||
Galaxy
F1
|
45-50
DAS
|
dark
green, 33 cm long
|
tolerant to virus
|
Bonito
F1
|
40-45
DAS
|
improved native, dark
green, only 15 cm long
|
tolerant to virus,
early-maturing, high yielder,
best for pinakbet
|
Sta.
Rita
|
55-60
DAS
|
light
green, 28 cm long
|
tolerant to downy mildew
|
Sta.
Fe F1
|
48-53
DAS
|
light
green, 34 cm long
|
tolerant to downy mildew
|
Makiling
|
55-60
DAS
|
light
green, 33 cm long
|
strongly tolerant to downy mildew
|
Mayon F1
|
50-55
DAS
|
light
green, 33 cm long
|
tolerant to virus and downy
mildew
|
DAS – Days after sowing
III. Land Preparation
Plow clayey and weedy fields at least twice to help eliminate weeds, hibernating insect pests, and soil-borne diseases.
The best time to plow the field is when a ball does not form when the soil is squeezed by hand and only a thin film of the soil sticks to the fingers and palm. Plow at a depth of 15-20 cm.
Harrow twice to break the clods and level the field. A well- pulverized soil promotes good soil aeration and enhances root formation.
IV. Raising SeedlingsAmpalaya can be directly seeded or transplanted. Transplanting is recommended for hybrid seeds, and for off-season planting to minimize the exposure of young plants to unfavorable weather conditions and reduce plant mortality.
Follow these steps in raising seedlings in plastic trays.
1. Pre-germinating the seeds:
The ampalaya seed coat is hard and waxy. It takes 7-8 days before the seed germinates. Emergence can be hastened by pre-germinating the seeds. An area of 1000 m2 (tenth of a hectare) requires about 120 g of seeds. One gram (g) contains around 5 seeds.
2. Preparing the sowing materials:
a. Prepare the following sowing medium.
- 2 parts rice straw compost
- 4 parts carbonized rice hull (CRH)
- 1 part processed chicken manure (PCM)
b. Mix the materials thoroughly.
c. Water the seeds using a sprinkler with fine droplets.
d. Cover the tray with old newspaper, plastic sack, or rice straw to maintain soil moisture and temperature.
e. Remove the cover as soon as the seeds have sprouted.
4. Caring for and maintaining the seedlings:
a. Place the trays on the platforms of a simple nursery.
b. Roof the nursery with transparent plastic sheets during the rainy season; plastic nets or chicken wire during the dry season. The nursery minimizes exposure of the seedlings to extreme hot weather, heavy rains, and protects them from stray animals.
c. Water early in the morning and afternoon. Apply less water during rainy and cloudy days. The seedlings weaken and elongate with too much water.
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